Viognier - The Magic Grape

I’m always a little apprehensive when all wine writers jump on one band wagon and wax lyrical about the ‘next big thing’.

But, then again, their push for greater appreciation for our wonderful Rieslings was certainly well warranted and seemingly successful. Although, it must be said, it took a number of years before the public came on board and also began to appreciate the blessed stuff.

This brings me to Viognier, which is certainly much appreciated by wine writers of all shapes and sizes. But is this just a new fad – a trendy little number that will disappear the minute something newer appears on the horizon? I, for one, certainly hope not. Because Viognier at its best is a delicious, fresh, full bodied white wine that just begs to be drunk with good food.

Originally from the Rhone Valley, Viognier almost disappeared in the 60’s. This was due mainly to the fact that it is not an easy grape to grow and it generates a fairly low yield to boot. Fortunately sanity prevailed and, with the 70’s resurgence of the popularity of Rhone wines, the Condrieu’s of France began to receive a great deal of well deserved attention.

It then achieved more fame through the Californian Rhone Ranger movement (a group of Californian wine makers who decided to make wines in the style of the Rhone Valley – particularly Syrah [shiraz] and Viognier. At the same time, the wine made a great comeback in France itself and replanting occurred rapidly in both the Rhone and nearby Southern France.

Today the United States is most probably the largest producer of Viognier, with more than 50 wineries producing it. And, Australia has certainly jumped on the bandwagon. Yalumba was one of the forerunners and offers, at last count, 3 or 4 separate bottlings – including a Noble Pick Botrytis Viognier. D’Arenberg also sometimes produces a wonderful McLaren Vale version (The Last Ditch Viognier), which is both inexpensive and bloody good - sadly, it’s as rare as hen’s teeth. While at the other end of the spectrum, Gary Farr (with his own brand By Farr) and Petaluma both produce terrific wines. And I often drink a terrific version from the Mornington producer Elgee Park.

On the other hand, I did also recently taste a rather dreadful version from a large producer who shall remain nameless. And, herein lies a slight problem. Obviously not every wine can be wonderful, but Viognier is, and has always been, a very difficult grape to deal with (as mentioned above). If unripe, it is thin and, for want of a better word, awful. Whilst if over ripe, it’s not much better. This is a wine that is completely dependent on the flavour of the grapes when they are picked. If the flavour is not there at that time, then it never will be.

So be careful when you buy Viognier. Start off with the brands I have discussed and keep in mind that this is a food wine – not something that you quaff while leaning on a bar.

ps. I’m also very impressed by the Shiraz-Viognier blends that are appearing – in particular, Mr Riggs version from McLaren Vale in South Australia.