I first visited the house of Ricasoli in 1973, as a guest of the then Baron. This amazing family property is one of Chianti Classico's most historic estates. The castle, which towers over the vineyards, olive groves and general countryside, was built in the 12th Century. The family has been making wine and olive oil here since 1141. In 1973, Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the great grandfather of my host, was Prime Minister of Italy and the visionary winemaker who, in 1874, invented the 'recipe' for modern Chianti - 80% Sangiovese, Canaiolo to soften the tannins, some dried Colorino added for flesh and a splash of white Malvasia to lighten matters. It is only in the past few decades that Chianti producers have improved the quality of their Sangiovese, and the other grapes have became less relevant.

The problems of such a large estate - 1200 hectares, 240 under vine, in the economically troubled post-war Italian agrarian times forced the Baron to sell the wine business to the US spirits giant Seagram. They were spending a small fortune on cathedrals of stainless steel when I visited, but it was a mere drop in the ocean, and at no stage did they improve the quality of the vineyards. Eventually the whisky distillers lost interest and for some crazy reason Ricasoli ended up in the hands of the Australian wine family Hardy's who had also purchased the splendid, but equally rundown Domaine de la Baume in Southern France (see Wines of the Month).

The family had also over extended with purchases in Australia of Houghton, Reynella and Stanley. These dalliances plus the sheer amount of simultaneous investments in both European operations proved too much for the family, who were forced to merge with Riverland plonk producers Berri-Renamo co-operative, thus becoming BRL Hardy. The Ricasoli vineyards were still largely ignored, the cellars degenerated and the wines went down the tubes. And the first reaction of the new owners of Hardy's was "let's get rid of our Italian fiasco".

In 1993 the new Baron d'Francesco, a young fashion photographer, bought back the farm. This was the easy part. Only then came the huge investment in replanting and the construction of new cellars. He brought in his mate the Marchese Filippo Mazzei, of the family who owns the top-notch neighbouring Fonterutoli estate. Their oenologist Carlo Ferrini, considered to be the finest in Tuscany, was also brought on board.

What an amazing turn around! I visited the castle and winery this September. Gone is the wide range of every day wines. Quality is all. Francesco considers that 100% Sangiovese is the ultimate expression of the Classico vineyards. He makes three Chiantis, and the ultimate one being from his finest Sangiovese plots and only from the finest vintages is CASTELLO DI BROLIO. I tasted, and bought, the sensational 2001. A wonderfully intense wine with gorgeous raspberryish fruit, and a harmonious oak balance with a marvellous velvety finish which lingers in the mouth for hours. The wine is drinking beautifully now, but will only get better over the next five or so years. Simply the best Chianti I have ever tasted!

At about £25-30 it is not for everyday drinking, but you owe yourself a bottle some time. Ask your local wine merchant to find it, or contact their local agents maurizio@arquilla.com for contact details.

By the way, if you are ever in the area, the castle is well worth a tour (it is open to the public most days) - whether you are interested in wine or not.