A number of years ago, I was invited to a tomato tasting at Digger's Seeds in Victoria's Mornington Peninsula. Conducted by David Cavagnaro, the then farm manager from America's Seed Saver's Exchange, it was (to say the least) an eye opener.

Apart from the amazing array of colours (purple, yellow, green, striped and, of course, many shades of red), these tomatoes had real flavour. Obviously, much of this had to do with the fact that they were all organically grown without commercial pesticides and fertiliser (as were the seeds). But also, as it was quickly pointed out, because they were original varieties from palmier days when taste and flavour was all important, rather than ease of transport and a prolonged shelf life.

Reminding me of my father's wonderful 'tommies', which were grown with little more than a sprinkling of homemade compost, we ate them like apples. I vowed to never again let those modern insipid, tasteless beasts darken our lips.

I would like to say that I have faithfully stuck to that vow - but I can't. First of all, my attempts at growing the blessed things in pots in my backyard failed (the possums had a feast). And it appeared that many of the so called organic vegie shops I visited were, to say the least, dodgy. (I still have nightmares about my pommy mate, Solly, who made millions buying the spotty seconds from the London market and selling them as organics.) But, I am pleased to report things are finally looking up. Terrific organic shops are opening everywhere, self-regulation of the industry appears to be working and even some supermarkets appear to be coming to the party with organic vegetable sections.

But those tomatoes still don't taste like my Dad's (or David's for that matter). So, it could be a return to the backyard where I could maybe put a puree of chillies around the base of my tomato plants to scare off the pesky possums. Although, I do seem to remember that last time they treated this is as an appertif and ate it first.

ps. For your information, the Seed Saver's Exchange is a non-profit organisation which is dedicated to the preservation of original varieties from around the world. And their Heritage Farm has a seed collection of over 8000 different strains of vegetables - a vital collection in a world that often doesn't realise the danger in switching lock, stock and barrel to the so-called 'miracle' high yielding varieties. Their website address is http://www.seedsavers.org and another good reference website is http://homepage.tinet.ie/~merlyn/seedsaving.html And, for something closer to home, take a look at http://www.diggers.com.au


ROASTED TOMATO & BASIL SOUP
Serves 4

10 large ripe, red tomatoes, cored & halved
2 garlic cloves
23 fresh basil leaves
sea salt & freshly ground pepper
olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 large potato, chopped
vegetable stock
2 tbsp freshly grated parmesan

Preheat oven to 180°C fan forced (200°C normal).

Place the tomatoes in a baking tray, sprinkle with 2 coarsely chopped garlic cloves, 8 finely sliced basil leaves, seasonings and a generous amount of oil. Cook in the oven for about 50 mins until the tomatoes collapse and caramelise around the edges.

After 30 mins, put the onion and potato in a pot and cover with the stock. Gently cook until soft.

Then blend the onion, potato and tomatoes with some of the tomato oil.

To make the pesto, blend or process the remaining garlic and basil with the parmesan and enough oil to make a paste. Season to taste.

Serve in individual bowls with a dollop of pesto on top.